A dear child has many names: Straight razor, Razor knife and Straight Razor.
Shaving with a razor is a discipline unto itself. It requires patience, dexterity and practice. Below you can read our guide on how to shave with a Straight razor, the benefits of using a straight razor, tips for choosing a straight razor and how to sharpen and maintain your razor for optimal results.
Benefits of using a Straight Razor
The main advantage of using a classic razor is that you get a very close and smooth shave. You only need to run the blade over the skin once to remove the stubble, minimizing the risk of irritation and razor burn.
Once you've invested in a good razor, you'll enjoy it for many years to come. Just remember to sharpen and maintain it.
Dovo makes some terrific Straight razors of durable quality, available in a variety of materials and with unique gold-plated details.
But if you want the ultimate in straight razors, we recommend a blade from French Thiers-Issard. A work of art packed with great details and made from exclusive materials for men who don't compromise on equipment!
Which type should I choose?
Are you looking for a good razor that you can enjoy for a long time to come? Then we recommend that you invest in a high-quality knife from the start.
The steel itself is crucial to your experience. Carbon steel is the ultimate in this regard. This type of steel is forged in a unique way that makes the knife very strong and sharp.
We recommend you choose a blade that is not too wide. A size of 5/8" or 6/8" is a good guideline to follow, as these most easily follow the contours of the face.
The different types of Straight Razors
There are different options when it comes to the tip of the knife. Below you can read about each of them:
Round Nose
Round Nose
A round nose has a round end and is a great choice if you're a beginner as you won't cut the skin as easily. The rounded tip makes it easier to navigate around nostrils, sideburns and other tricky areas where precision is important, but the risk of cuts should be minimal.
French Nose
French Nose
A French nose looks like a quarter circle in profile with a sharper angled curve and a pointed end. This type makes it easier to shave tricky areas such as under the nose, around the mouth or close to the contours of the beard. The more precise tip gives you better control and access to areas where a rounder shape might struggle to reach all the way in.
Spanish Point
Spanish Point
A Spanish point gives an exclusive and elegant look with its pointed, concave shape. The advantage of this type is that it is particularly suitable for very fine and detailed work where precision is paramount - for example, contour shaving or trimming sharp lines. The downside is that the pointed end can be more aggressive on the skin and you can cut yourself more easily if you don't have the right technique. It is therefore not recommended for beginners, but is a good choice for the experienced user looking for maximum precision.
Square Nose
Square Nose
In addition, you'll also find Straight Razors with a completely straight end, called a "square nose". This type has a sharp, right-angled end that makes it easy to create precise lines and work close to edges and contours. It's a popular choice among experienced users who want full control over the shave - but it requires a steady hand as the straight edge can easily tear if you're not careful.
Inverted Turkish Point
Inverted Turkish Point
Dovo has also developed a new type of nose on their Straight Razors, called an Inverted Turkish Point. This design combines elements of both the classic Turkish Point and a more modern, inward curved profile for a unique and eye-catching design. Created with precision in mind, the shape provides good access to difficult areas while maintaining an elegant and balanced look. It's an exciting choice for the experienced user who wants something special and functional in their shaving routine.
Step by step: How to shave
If you have a long beard, it's a good idea to Trimmer it before shaving. It's important to cleanse your face and rinse with lukewarm water to soften and soften your stubble. You may want to apply a Preshaveto optimally protect the skin.
Put your Shaving Brush soak in warm water and then give the brush a squeeze to release the water. Run the brush around in your Shaving Soap or Shaving Cream until you achieve a rich, creamy consistency. Apply the now foamy product to the face in a circular motion to lift the stubble from the skin.
There are many ways to hold a razor, and it's a matter of taste which grip works best for each individual.
In hairdressing schools, students are taught a standard grip, which is still the most popular grip today. In this grip, open the razor as wide as possible so that you almost feel like you're turning it inside out. Then place your fingers as shown in the top four images to the right.
There is also another handle that may be easier and more intuitive for you. In this grip, the Straight razor is an extension of your finger, as you can see in the bottom two images.
However, it's important to point out that you can't keep the same grip throughout your shave. You need to change your grip along the way in order to shave your entire face optimally.
Always start shaving in the direction of the stubble. Hold the blade at an angle of 30 degrees. Avoid pressing the blade against the skin, but let its own weight do the work.
Rinse your face with cold water to close the pores. Finish with a good Aftershavewhich soothes the skin and provides plenty of moisture and care.
It's important to note:
There are big differences in how manufacturers deliver their straight razors. Not all are "shave-ready" (i.e. ready to use) upon receipt. If it's not shave-ready, start by strapping the blade with a leather strap and only then is it ready for your first shave.
Further down in the guide you can read what a leather strap is and how to use it.
Daily cleaning and maintenance
Even though your razor is probably made of stainless steel, you should always wipe it down after use. In other words, the razor should be clean and dry before you leave the bathroom.
Fortunately, it doesn't take many seconds to clean your Straight razor on a daily basis.
Rinse the blade under the hot tap and then dry it gently with a paper towel. You may want to give it a thin coat of oil if your bathroom has a very humid climate.
How to sharpen your Razor
It's important to remember to sharpen your razor as the blade can become a little uneven over time. If the blade is not sharp, there is a high risk of irritation, beard rash and redness, just like if you don't change your Razor Blade on a traditional Razor.
There are two things you can't do without when sharpening your razor: A leather strap and a sanding paste.
1. Leather strap
You should use a leather strap (also called an ironing strap) to keep your Straight razor sharp and clean.
At Proshave, we have two types of leather straps: Paddle and Hanging.
The Paddle has a handle and can therefore be easily used without taking up a lot of space. A Paddle strap is self-explanatory: You hold the strap in one hand and work with the Straight razor in the other.
The hanging strap has a loop at the end to be attached to a peg, handle or similar. It is the traditional and most effective strap. There are countless guides online on how to use the leather strap. With the Hanging strap you have two options: Either lay the strap flat on a table and strap it there. Or you attach one end of the strap to a door handle, hold the other end with your hand and use the opposite hand to strap the Straight razor. In the latter case, the strap will move freely while you sharpen the razor.
2. Abrasive paste
You may eventually need to buy a sharpening paste / strapping paste for your leather strap. These contain microscopic diamond particles that ensure a super sharp straight razor. The pastes give your straight razor everything from an ultra fine grind to a coarser grind.
However, please note: Once you have applied a sanding paste to the leather strap, there is no going back. Your leather strap will be more aggressive in its sanding than it was when you bought it.
You can also buy a conditioning balm to freshen up your leather strap when it needs it.
When the Straight razor is too blunt
If you don't remember to regularly maintain your straight razor on a lanyard, you will eventually find that it becomes very dull. Once your Straight razor is really dull, a leather strap is no longer enough to keep it sharp and shave-ready. The same applies if you've dropped your Straight razor and it's got a big bump.
In that case, you need a real sharpening stone - or better yet, someone who knows how to use a sharpening stone. Only then can you get your straight razor back in top shape for a close and comfortable shave in the future.
Are you still left with questions?
You are always more than welcome to write to us at info@proshave.dk or call 7070 1808 if you are unsure about anything.
Author: Pernille Lanng
